SRFACE Diaries gives you a peek into the lives of our ambassadors. Because we all surf but have so much more that makes us interesting human beings. This week: Ocean and earth lover, architect and surfer Ana Morau from Bask Country, France. Images by Jan Bijl.
How did you start surfing?
I was born and grew up right in front of the ocean in Hendaye, a small town in the Bask Country. The long sandy beach of Hendaye has always been my playground and naturally at about 7 years old I surfed my first waves and never stopped since that day.
Why do you surf?
I surf because I’m looking for a connection with the ocean and nature. I love searching and finding new spots, not only for finding the best waves but mostly to discover amazing places. I’m always excited about going in the water however good or bad the waves are. The ocean offers something different every day, and allows us to feel new sensations every time we surf. Surfing is simply my therapy, my way of life. No words can describe this feeling better than the big smile on my face after a session.
What does a typical day in your life look like?
The swell and tide determine the rhythm of my day. I usually wake up very early and check the waves with my cup of tea. If the waves are good I go for a quick session before work. If not, I wait patiently until my lunch break to surf. After work I watch the sunset, it’s part of my ritual.
What is your favorite surf destination?
I think that ultimately the place or the wave doesn’t matter. The most important thing for me are the people you meet and the experiences you have while traveling. Every place on earth has something magical, we just have to open our eyes to appreciate it.
What is your favorite surf spot?
Home, of course. So either Lafitenia or Guethary… but definitely a Bask reef break.
What’s the best session you caught in camera?
I think Indonesia, Uluwatu a few years ago. I spent the whole day in the water with friends… it was epic!
Who is your favorite surfer?
I grew up watching and studying Andy Irons. In my opinion he understood everything there is to know about surfing. Some Bask locals like Pilou Ducalme and my brother Félix also inspire me a lot because of their love for surfing and their smiles.
We love a good surf movie. Any tips?
I watched ‘Crossing the Line’ featuring Andy and Bruce Irons probably a thousand times. Their surfing level is amazing and I also really like the soundtrack. I also love to watch ‘Biarritz Surf Gang’, made by some local boys from Biarritz. They tell the story of their elders and the way that surfing evolved around Biarritz thanks to them. A good watch!
Anything else you want to share?
The protection of our environment and our ocean is something that I care deeply about. It’s never easy to talk about it without judgment, also because we are all full of contradictions about this topic. @greenbitchmedia addresses these serious issues with humor, and I believe that is the best way to do it. Give them a follow :-).
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