SRFACE Diaries

Benedicte Emery

Written by SRFACE

How did you start surfing?

I’ve been raised close to the sea but somehow I never tried surfing before the age of 10. During summer holidays we once made a family day trip to La Torche, a surfing beach 20 minutes from home. My brother brought an old surfboard from our cousin (the kind of yellowish shortboard with oldschool stickers everywhere). He pushed me into some waves and I managed to do the pop-up several times, I loved it. Somehow I never asked my parents if I could take on surfing as a sport, I always figured that they would say no… that it’d be too dangerous. Four years later however, they offered me a real surf lesson. That’s when the surfing bug bit me!

Why do you surf?

For many reasons! The combination of those reasons is what makes surfing perfect. The first one would be the glide and flow, a fluent motion that you feel while surfing on a wave, something that I couldn’t find in any other sport. Second would be the atmosphere that surfing brings: Beautiful moments with friends, nature, music and art. Those are some of the reasons to why I kept surfing during all these years. 

What does a typical day in your life look like? 

My typical day would be some sort of compromise between a good amount of outdoor activity, chosen according to the weather, and my job as a general practitioner (doctor). Blend everything with a big amount of coffee, some music and friends, that is where I find my balance.

It’s been a while, more or less ten years, since my life is not ALL about surfing anymore. Now it’s more of a sport that I like to do on holidays, when I really have all the time and tranquillity that I need. It is not something I can rush anymore.

Who or what inspires you and why?

In general I would be inspired by people who pursue and accomplish their goals no matter the hurdles they face. A proper demonstration of mental strength, I admire them.

For example, I really like the project of these 3 friends called ‘Lost in the swell’. They are traveling to surf in very remote areas, trying to make their trip as eco-friendly as possible. They get around by using bicycles, sailing boats, riding donkeys and more, very fun to watch.

What do you do to relax?

I definitely need to go outside, either for a walk or something more intense like surfing, climbing or skiing. I especially like winter time because you can augment your relaxation time in the evening by lighting a fire and making a cup of tea while you listen to your favourite music, like Panda Dub. 

Do you have a tip for people who want to build a life around freedom and surfing?

I guess freedom can have different meanings. In my case I feel free because I willingly chose the city I live in, the activities that I do and the friends that I’m surrounded by. 

What is your favorite surfboard and why?

Favorite surfboard would without a doubt be my twin fish 5’8 shaped by my friend Laurent ‘plume d’avion‘, hand-shaped in Bretagne. It truly is a magical board that turns, duck dives and paddles worry-free. It’s like a pair of pyjamas in which you know you’ll be 100% comfy.

What is your favourite surf destination and why?

I haven’t traveled too much to go surfing but it would probably be Morocco. As I said, surfing is perfect when te waves are good and the atmosphere is nice. The beautiful sea and their surroundings make the Agadir region perfect.

What is your favourite surf movie and why?

Obviously ‘Surf’s up’ … I really like Cody.

If you’re not surfing you are…?

Working, skiing, climbing, playing music. Don’t worry, I won’t stay home to watch Netflix. 

Name one thing the world could use more of now

It’s a cliché maybe but ‘kindness’ is definitely the trade I would love for everyone to have, especially on crowded peaks during summer ;).

Would you rather have unlimited paddle power and speed, or night vision so you could surf at night?

Can I pick unlimited coffee instead?

Anything you’d like to share with our readers?

Go watch the movie/episode of Lost in the swell, you’ll add some new songs to your playlist for sure.

Behind the lens: Lukas Pelus, Jules Langeard & Blindlarcher

The ultimate wetsuit for every surfer

Shop from€189