SRFACE Diaries gives you a peek into the lives of our ambassadors. Because we all surf but have so much more that makes us interesting human beings. This week: Surfer, shaper and part-time adventurer Paul Alexis from Quiberon, France. Images by Aurelien Bacquet & Tom Rondel.
How did you start surfing?
As a kid, my parents used to take me to the beach near Plouharnel. That’s the surf spot where I go most of the time now. I started playing in the waves with a cheap bodyboard we bought in a supermarket. Later on, I got better at bodyboarding but I was always trying to stand up. When I was 10 we went to Mauritius because my father lived there for a couple of years when he was young. He never surfed but took me to Tamarin. We rented a surfboard, and I got my first waves on a real surfboard. It was a revelation! On my next birthday I asked for a surfboard, and that’s how it all started.
Why do you surf?
I come from a small town surrounded by fields and the sea. Nature has always been around in my life and what I like most about surfing is the connection with it. What else? Well, I love exploring and taking my van for a trip in search of great waves and adventure. It always pays out.
A typical day in your life?
I usually go surfing at dawn if the conditions are good. After that I head to the workshop, shape or glass boards, eat my cheese sandwich, look at some surf videos, and work again. Depending on how drained I am, I go back to the beach for another session to end my day.
My favorite surf destination
Imsouane, Morocco. It’s the longest and most perfect wave I’ve ever surfed. In addition to having this great wave, the village has a really relaxed atmosphere. It’s a lovely escape when you’re looking to hide from the European winter.
What’s the best session you’ve caught on camera?
We don’t film often and no one wants to film when the waves are on haha.
Who is your favourite surfer?
As a shaper I am very interested in the history and evolution of surfing. George Greenough is my god, I love his kneeboarding style and he has done so much for the evolution of surf crafts design. It’s hard to say who’s my favorite surfer. The list is quite long but I can name a few: Andy Nieblas, I still remember his introduction video for Almond Surfboards, it was my favorite video 10 years ago. Justin Adams, a way of surfing completely out of the ordinary. Too bad there aren’t many videos of him. Devon Howard, master of longboard and mid-length. I’m completely enthralled when I see him surfing.
What is your favourite board?
My 7’6 Mid Pin. I surf it 80% of the time, it’s my ‘one-board quiver’. It works all the time, small or big waves. It catches waves like a longboard and can be surfed almost like a short board with smooth transitions.
Best surf movie ever made?
The classic Endless Summer movie by Bruce Brown. This film shows the true spirit of surfing. The exploration, the journey, the search for the perfect wave, it’s all there.
Anything you want to share with our readers?
Check out my work and follow me on instagram (@mimosa.surfboards) 🙂
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