When did you start surfing?
I started surfing somewhere near Cornwall when I was about 13 years old. My parents and me were on holiday with our campervan. There was a small surf school near the campsite. I recall being a bit bored and feeling sick after eating pizzas which had undercooked chicken on it. I took a surfing-lesson with my father and it felt like an acceptable holiday activity.
Why do you surf?
I kind of grew into it. Surfing has a strong relation with pop-culture, art / design and skateboarding. At the time, it was just cool to be a surfer. Nowadays, I see myself as a designer or researcher. What I love most, is the feeling of driving on keel fins or trimming down the line on a finless. That feeling when board-design is in sync with an emerging wave and you can resonate with that wave and redirect energy. Daoists call this Wu Wei I think.