My Parents have always inspired me. They are constantly pursuing enjoyment in life above all things. I try to emulate that as best I can!

My dad was a sailor and a surfer, so growing up was a sea based affair for the whole family. All 6 of us are in and out of the water constantly; swimming, surfing, sailing, fishing… The list goes on and on. I probably first stood on a surfboard around the age of 4.

Why do I surf? Who knows really! Mainly because I love the sea I guess. Any time I’m in the sea I’m happy, but surfing adds an extra element. I love the athletic side, the playful and the scary side, I love the communities and the friends, the adventure and the anticipation. I love all the crazy, beautiful, random places you end up while on the search. Surfing is a combination of everything that is amazing about the world and being alive. I also love getting tubed.

Hmm – I have kinda enjoyed most of my jobs, mainly surf shops and surf schools and stuff… I was a dish pig for a bit, but all the kitchen staff were great and we just had a laugh. The least enjoyable job I did was online tutoring. Teaching Maths to young teenagers who didn’t give a shit about what I was trying to teach them… but I got to work from home so its all good.

About 2 years ago I bought a derelict house in Donegal, Ireland. Since then I have been spending most of my time there slowly doing it up and surfing as much as possible. So generally I’ll be getting up and checking the surf with my morning cuppa. I’ll be surfing when it’s good and if not I’ll try and motivate myself to get some work done on the house. In the evenings I stay warm by the fire, play a bit of guitar or harmonica, maybe do some knitting or read a bit. It’s nice. Slow and simple. The pandemic hasn’t affected that side of my life too much!

I love Ireland. It’s hard work. Cold and windy and wet. The days are pretty short in the winter. The weather is maddeningly unpredictable. It’s f*cking great.

So many, I just love them all too much to pick. Except Puts, Puts is shit.

It really depends on where I am. If I’m with my partner Chloe, we tent to play lots of board games and card games (mainly Dominion). If I’m alone I do lots of knitting and reading and whittling. I’m big into hard Sci-Fi and fantasy when reading, and I’m best at whittling spoons.

The most recent and amazing session was last winter, at a wave called Prowlers in Ireland. It was just one of those magic days where all the stars align. The spot is so fickle that it is rarely surfed at all, let alone as perfect as it was that day. Just a few mates out all having the most amazing time. Ear to ear smiles on everyone’s face all day and for weeks after.

Probably Parko. I have always loved his style and he just seems like a really nice guy! Always happy and smiling. I was lucky enough to surf with him on a big day at Keramas once (big for 12y/o me). He was shredding and I was in awe. At one point I ended up in position for a good one on the peak, as I paddled he hooted or something. I can’t remember the wave, I can only remember being so stoked that he had hooted me into a wave!

My favourite board is a 6’6 pulled in swallow called the Tube Ferret by NS Surfboards. It is actually a board model that Nigel and I worked on for quite a few years. Chatting and designing on the CAD software and making slight alterations with each iteration. It’s just a great board in big barrels. I have had almost all my best barrels on that model. Every time I snap one I get a new one made and the old one repaired. I have like 4 of them now, one of which has been snapped and/or creased like 3 times!

When I was a kid, I used to watch Stranger than Fiction on repeat and get so psyched. All the surfing was so sick and the sound track was amazing. I loved all the little jokey spoof anecdotes and skits they chucked in.

Check the photos, mainly renovating my house; but I am also a keen rock climber. I’m pretty average, and mainly climb Trad as there are not many sport crags in Ireland. I had only ever been a surfer until I started climbing about 4 years ago. Its been really fun getting into a new sport and being a kook again. It’s crazy how much you froth at the start, and how quickly I have fallen in love with climbing. It has even made me re-evaluate how much surfing means to me and made me fall in love with surfing all over again!

Depends what you're looking for! I like all the photographers, @ChrisBurkard is normally the highlight of my feed but everyone follows him already! You could follow me but I’m pretty inconsistent…

Always choose to do the thing that makes you happier over the thing that makes you more money.

Peace and love <3 (and a sustainable energy storage medium).

Definitely unlimited paddle power & speed. You could surf all day and always be in the spot to catch any wave you wanted. No brainer hahah

Education. A lot of the world’s problems result from ignorance of some sort. Education is a good way to combat ignorance. 

Life is short. Do things that make you happy and don’t f*ck up the floating ball of rock we all call home. And as always, Froth on and Prosper.