In the summer of '95, I was a 17-year-old kid who was already into skateboarding and snowboarding, working as a dishwasher while living on a campsite in a town that I knew had some surf. The site was 120 km from my home. I got there by hitchhiking. Upon arrival, I purchased a secondhand 6'5" board, taught myself to surf, completed my job, received the payment, took the train to France and spent the rest of summer catching waves there. That summer, I had the most sun-kissed tan I've ever had!

The board I still own to this day! It's a 6'5"x19" Ocean Magic by Nigel Semmens, full padded, nose guard and glassed on fins. One of the fins was a little loose and in 1999 it came off. Some years ago, I glassed it back on and gave the board a shot again. But only for one day, though.

I can sum up a lot of cliché arguments why I surf, but the short version is that it gives me my fix and keeps the addiction going, and that way it keeps me happy chappy. What I like most about surfing is when the hunt pays off. Yes, you can get wet before or after work and come to work/home with a smile. But when you put a lot of effort in planning, adjusting the plans, and eventually hunting the surf and it all comes together; that's an amazing reward! 

What's so cool about surfing, is that it's so relative: The definition of a good wave is different for everybody / everywhere, and so is the wave you dream about. We all hunt for something different.

I would be lying if I’d say I have the luxury to go and surf everyday. A typical day for me would start with going to work as a front-end developer which in previous years I was self employed in making it a somewhat more flexible job. However, I live right at the coast, so I don't need all day to go surf, so often I can squeeze in a couple of waves. When there is surf on offer and I can fit it in I'll be checking the latest forecasts in the morning to see if it still holds. If there is no surf or I don’t have any time I would be having breakfast with my wife and three teenage kids and if my wife has to work early I would be walking the dog before heading to work and get a quick look at the ocean! In the evening I'll be checking the weather forecast and the daily cycle goes on. Surfing during the week for me, is planning and fitting it in. Life of the family man!

Home, of course. So either Lafitenia or Guethary... but definitely a Bask reef break.

I think Indonesia, Uluwatu a few years ago. I spent the whole day in the water with friends... it was epic! 

What inspired me back in the days was the Stormrider Guide Europe, that summer I learned to surf. I was really fascinated by the photos on the wall in the local surf shop, photos showing the local spot at its best. When I first browsed through the Stormrider Guide, it became a holy book for me, it was full of such photos! The Stormrider Guide extended my knowledge of the science behind wave forecasting, something I find very interesting. But it also showed me that you basically can surf anywhere, I was very inspired by the North Sea nations section, it was something I could relate to since that's where I lived, and I was impressed by what local surfers had discovered about their coastlines. The paradox is that Denmark had the absolute worst photos of all North Sea nations in the Stormrider Guide Europe (1998), and that's where I decided to settle down!

Still today, I love to see photos of surf conditions at their best, both at home and in nearby countries. It's like the conditions get better for each year!

Apparently I like to do things that are weather dependent. My other hobbies are snowboarding, and skateboarding (I've built a mini-ramp in our backyard during Covid!), sometimes I go fishing in the summer and I just bought myself my first MTB. Other than that I could be doing a ding repair, walking the dog, spending time with my family.

Fresh powder and a mountain top!

One movie that I'd like to see again is Feral Kingdom (1995, Rip Curl The Search 4) that my parents gave to me for my birthday that year I learned to surf. I watched it a zillion times back then. I still have it somewhere, but I don't have a VHS player anymore... The movie is a little weird at times, but I like that! But the surf and the surfing is absolutely awesome! Starring among others Pancho Sullivan, Tom Curren. It has those early aerial moves, shove-its etc. (performed in a disco suit!) But lots of epic waves with epic carves and barrels in e.g. Maldives, Indo - that weren't all that explored back then. You can really sense the travel aspect in the film. What I like in a surf movie is when the surfing, the waves and the filming do the expression; good surfing is just beautiful to watch.

If you want to get an idea of the surf in Denmark is like have a look at these accounts:

@olihartkopp Also Srface ambassador and danish champ, Oliver posts imagery from both ends of the country (Kattegat and North Sea, or from where ever he is) with quality surfing.

@coldhawaiisurfcamp Mor is a good friend of mine who runs a surfcamp in town. He is a really good surfer and and on this account you can see how good it can get here and Mor is making it look even better.

@k_eithz knows each and every sandbank around, he posts a lot but never exposes too much to give away the spot...

@noah_willumsen posts great stories, and he too finds good surf. We share some of the same hobbies, he's just so much better at it!

@56degresnofsurfing Per and his longboard use this account as some sort of a surf diary, and it's like he writes in it every day!! Also a proof that the best waves in Denmark are not always found up north..!

Living in Denmark definitely night-vision! In winter the days are short and with a day-time job you'll be missing out on surf!

I hope this winter treats you well!