I started surfing when I was 3. My parents pushed me into my first waves at Waikiki. I still remember my first wave, pretty cool my mom was able to snap this photo of it. A few waves later I realized I was goofy foot and put the right foot forward.

I surf because there is still nothing that compares to the feeling of riding a wave. Especially when the waves are big. It’s exciting, and scary and at moments almost feels like time is standing still. Also, in an era of constant distraction it’s one of the few places that forces you to be 100% present.

It always starts with coffee. If the waves are fun, I’ll surf. If not, I’ll hit the gym to stay in shape. I work in real estate, so that takes up a good chunk of my day, but I always try to wrap things up with something ocean-related, even if it’s just a quick swim or sunset session. 

Passion inspires me. I’m drawn to people who truly love what they do.

Sitting on the beach under the umbrella.

Probably fishing.

Less screen time. More real-world moments.

I think freedom is found in authenticity. Building a life around the people, places and things that fill your cup.

I’ve never had a job I hated. But I have put off work at every job I’ve ever had when the waves get good 😂

Hands down my favorite surf destination is Fiji. Cloudbreak has captured my whole attention. I’ve been fortunate enough to spend a good amount of time down there and there’s still nowhere else I’d rather be when the swell charts light up. The wave is good at 2 feet and 20 feet and everything in between. It’s a special wave and an incredibly special place. 

I used to watch Shane Dorian’s movie Blueprint over and over and over again. I still think he has one of the best styles to have ever put feet to wax.

@sailing_with_pheonix -  a guy who quit his corporate job with zero boating experience and is sailing the world with his cat.  

@sterlingspencer - the funniest voice/opinion in surfing. 

@tavaruaislandresort - literal heaven on earth.

I hope that’s a predicament no surfer has to face haha.

Oh that’s a good question... I guess I’d probably go for unlimited paddle power and speed. The waves you could catch with motor arms...

Get busy living.

Instagram: @tylerstanaland