TIME

SURFERS

PHOTOGRAPHY

5 min

Gony Zubizarreta

Ana Lourenço

How did you start surfing?

I started when I was 7 in 1992, with my dad and my brother. My dad was surfing and skating already so it was a natural thing for me even though it was not normal in Galicia for kids to start surfing at such a young age, back in those days.

I was very lucky, since that day I never stopped…

Why do you surf?

I surf because I love it since day one. It's something you can’t really explain to somebody that doesn’t surf. The feeling you get when you are riding a wave that is also moving and will disappear, only you can experience that. Also each wave is different which makes it even more special and exciting. To be in constant contact with the ocean and mother nature also gives you amazing feelings and every surf will make you feel better and also keep you humble.

What does a typical day in your life look like? 

Wake up, coffee and breaky, surfing, lunch, siesta and surf again if waves are good. Then computer work, Jam Traction and other projects with La Conservera organising surf trips and events as well. If waves are bad I work more and also go to the gym, but if waves are good I spend more time in the water. Also spend time with my girlfriend but she surfs as well, so its all good ;) can surf together.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE SURF DESTINATION AND WHY?

Africa!! Full of empty great waves and very nice people.

Who or what inspires you and why?

My family, always have inspired me. My parents and my brother. My best friends. I love friendly, polite, artistic, sensitive, creative, enthusiastic, humble and respectful people.

"Keep surfing as long as you can taking care of mother nature.."

Do you have a tip for people who want to build a life around freedom (and surfing)?

Try get a job that allows you to have free time, and if that job can be something that you like to do, thats the most important I think. But yeah, free time to do what makes you feel good is the most valuable in the end.

What’s the worst job you did so you could surf? 

Haven't experienced this yet... and hopefully never.

NAME ONE THING THE WORLD COULD USE MORE OF RIGHT NOW.

LOVE.

What is your favourite surf movie and why?

Mangna Plasm by Volcom. Veeco Productions. 1998. In my opinion the sickest surf movie ever. I was 13 when i watched it in Hossegor, first premiere they did in Europe, and Ill never forget it. It definitely had a big impact in me at the time. Recommend it 100%.

Amazing surfing, amazing music and the sickest art direction by Mike Mailman and Ethan Anderson.

What do you do to relax? 

Sleep for many many hours… when I get to the point that I gonna get ill if I keep going I take my time off and sleep for 12 hours straight sometimes. I love to draw and design as well to relax.

If you're not surfing you are...

Going with the flow, whatever the day offers, training, drawing, hanging out, working…

What accounts should we follow on Instagram?

@pentagram_pizza - Mike Mailman. One of the first Volcom artists and big influence in my life, as a person and artist.

@pulsesurf - Great surfing videos from the 80s and 90s and early 2000s mostly in Australia from the best surfers in the world at the time.

@cervezaslada - sickest and funniest surfing stories, if you speak spanish.

Would you rather have unlimited paddle power & speed or night vision so you surf at night?

I choose the second option if my best friends could have night vision as well. Otherwise wouldn’t be so nice if I can’t share the sessions at night.

NAME ONE THING YOU WOULD GIVE UP SURFING FOR.

My brain doesn't understand giving up surfing.

Anything you want to share with our readers?

Keep surfing as long as you can, respecting and helping each other, sharing good times, positive energy and taking care of mother nature.