Bali, Indonesia
Raskal
"I surf because it keeps me right-minded, there’s just nothing else like it."
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TIME
SURFERS
PHOTOGRAPHY
5 min
Raskal
mattpowerphoto
How did you start surfing?
I started catching waves on a little wave rebel boogie when I was 11 and was living in Portugal. From that first moment on I was hooked and kept at it.
Why do you surf?
I surf because it keeps me right-minded, there's just nothing else like it. It puts me in a perfect meditative state of mind which stays on for hours, even when I'm done surfing. Also I really don’t like working out for the sake of doing it. Luckily, when it comes to surfing, the workout is included. I tend to turn a blind eye to all the peddling and what happens between waves.
Who or what inspires you?
My own personal growth inspires me on a daily basis. I feel like there’s nothing that can lift your spirit more than seeing yourself working out your own wrinkles. However, dogs tend to inspire me a lot these days as well. The way they are constantly present and in the moment. So simple yet the hardest state of mind to reach.
What does a typical day in your life look like?
My typical day starts with a coffee and ends with a coffee. I might surf in between and most likely be busy with a hundred different projects at the same time.
What do you do to relax?
To relax I go have a coffee, a surf or just go walk in the dark while listening to a weird soundtrack of a movie that doesn’t exist.
What is your favourite surf spot?
Home, of course. So either Lafitenia or Guethary... but definitely a Bask reef break.
What’s the best session you caught in camera?
I think Indonesia, Uluwatu a few years ago. I spent the whole day in the water with friends... it was epic!
If you’re not surfing, you are…
Most likely running between my build sites or out shooting photos on some random job trip. I do love a good Netflix binge every now and then though. Disconnecting keeps me balanced.
Name one thing the world could use more of right now
The world needs people to wake the hell up, take better care of themselves and the people around them.
Do you have a tip for people who want to build a life around freedom (and surfing)?
The best tip I could ever give is to just trust your gut feeling, go out and make your dreams come true. Also create a passive income and get that money working for you instead of you working for it. I read “Rich dad poor dad”, one of those slimy best sellers, but still it changed my financial thoughts in ways I never thought possible.
What’s the worst job you did so you could surf?
Worst job must have been working at a lamb slaughter in a little hole of a town in northern Norway when I was about 25. I would not recommend that to anyone haha.
What is your favourite surf destination?
Favourite surf destination at the moment is Lombok, Indonesia. I have had so much fun scouting the little nooks and bays there. Won’t give out any names but there’s plenty of fun to be found.
What is your favourite board?
My favourite board….? I’ll give you two of them: First one is a ‘9”4 log made by Sean Cusick at the gliding barnacles festival. I borrowed one euro off of my good friend Filipe Neto to buy a lottery ticket and I won a free custom board. It flies!
Second one is my new log “Resolution” from Ross Concept who I’ve recently started to surf for. Just one of those boards on which you can almost take a nap on the nose.
Your favourite surf movie?
I have to say all the lost track clips by Torren Martyn and Ishka. They just have the best real deal feeling to them and Torren just makes any wave look like so much fun.
What accounts should we follow on Instagram?
I'm soooo tired of instagram lately. They’ve ruined it! But @lookatthisrussia never disappoints haha. @__nitch is always great.
Name one thing you would give up surfing for?
Not sure I wanna answer that… pizza?
Would you rather have unlimited paddle power & speed or night vision so you surf at night?
I think paddle power would be it. Too many big fish out in the dark.
Anything you want to share with our readers?
Please make every day you have as special as you can. You never know what’s around the corner. Life’s precious, don't let it slip away from you.
That’s about that, shall we go out and get a coffee now? Yeeeeah, let’s go.
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