How did you start surfing?
I started catching waves on a little wave rebel boogie when I was 11 and was living in Portugal. From that first moment on I was hooked and kept at it.
Why do you surf?
I surf because it keeps me right-minded, there's just nothing else like it. It puts me in a perfect meditative state of mind which stays on for hours, even when I'm done surfing. Also I really don’t like working out for the sake of doing it. Luckily, when it comes to surfing, the workout is included. I tend to turn a blind eye to all the peddling and what happens between waves.