Bali, Indonesia
Raskal
"I surf because it keeps me right-minded, there’s just nothing else like it."
Sorry, het lijkt erop dat we niet genoeg van dit product hebben.
Wetsuit Wash
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Organisch Katoenen Poncho
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€69
TIME
SURFERS
PHOTOGRAPHY
5 min
Jowan Pegg
@surfphotogoofy & @_ninasophiesanders
How and when did you start surfing?
To be honest, I've been in and around the sea since I was a baby. However, I started surfing properly when I was about 10 years old.
Why do you surf and what do you love most about it?
I've pondered this question many times, especially after enduring weeks of two-foot onshore waves in the depths of winter at home. Why do I do this?
For me, it's because surfing offers an ever-changing environment where you rely on nature and the ocean. I love the challenge this brings and the feeling of connection to my surroundings. This connection always draws me back.
Who or what inspires you and why?
At this point in my life, it has to be traveling. I've learned so many valuable lessons from it already, and I've hardly been out of Europe. Meeting new people and experiencing new cultures have opened my eyes to so many new things.
What do you do to relax?
To relax, I enjoy taking a walk, sitting on a cliff top, watching a film, or, if I may be candid, having a smoke. Anything that helps me unwind.
What does a typical day in your life look like?
Right now, I'm in the depths of the Sumatran jungle, so my day typically starts at 5:40 am. I wake up, stumble into the sea with a yawn, and often find myself in a pretty pumping lineup!
The rest of the day usually involves chasing waves, eating, filming, and sharing a few drinks with friends.
If you’re not surfing, you are…
Well, it depends on where I am. If I'm at home in the UK, I would be working. But when I'm on a trip, if I'm not surfing, then something's definitely gone wrong!
Name one thing the world could use more of right now?
Smiles
Do you have tip for people who want to build a life around freedom (and surfing)?
Look at Torren Martyn: He's got it pretty figured out. As for me, at only 21 years old, I'm still figuring this out. My goal is to work towards a life where I'm not working for someone else or a company.
I believe that this brings a lot of freedom and allows you to take the day off if the waves are pumping.
What’s the worst job you did so you could surf?
Haha! To be honest, it wasn't a bad job at all—probably the opposite. When I was 16 or 17, I worked at my local surf school, sitting on the beach with a trailer full of kayaks for rental. The thing is, I wasn't allowed to rent them out when there was too much swell, so I got my days off when the surf was good. Shoutout to Martin at Discovery Surf School, best boss around!
What is your favourite surf destination and why?
Portugal, I love the feel of the country. Everyone’s lovely, the food is great, and the landscapes are awesome.
What accounts should we follow on Instagram and why?
Apart from the obvious one, @jowan_mp, @scenicpisses never disappoints haha.
Name one thing you would give up surfing for
I’ll get back to you.
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