To be honest, I've been in and around the sea since I was a baby. However, I started surfing properly when I was about 10 years old.

I've pondered this question many times, especially after enduring weeks of two-foot onshore waves in the depths of winter at home. Why do I do this?

For me, it's because surfing offers an ever-changing environment where you rely on nature and the ocean. I love the challenge this brings and the feeling of connection to my surroundings. This connection always draws me back.

At this point in my life, it has to be traveling. I've learned so many valuable lessons from it already, and I've hardly been out of Europe. Meeting new people and experiencing new cultures have opened my eyes to so many new things.

To relax, I enjoy taking a walk, sitting on a cliff top, watching a film, or, if I may be candid, having a smoke. Anything that helps me unwind.

Right now, I'm in the depths of the Sumatran jungle, so my day typically starts at 5:40 am. I wake up, stumble into the sea with a yawn, and often find myself in a pretty pumping lineup!

The rest of the day usually involves chasing waves, eating, filming, and sharing a few drinks with friends.

Well, it depends on where I am. If I'm at home in the UK, I would be working. But when I'm on a trip, if I'm not surfing, then something's definitely gone wrong!

Smiles

Look at Torren Martyn: He's got it pretty figured out. As for me, at only 21 years old, I'm still figuring this out. My goal is to work towards a life where I'm not working for someone else or a company.

I believe that this brings a lot of freedom and allows you to take the day off if the waves are pumping.

Haha! To be honest, it wasn't a bad job at all—probably the opposite. When I was 16 or 17, I worked at my local surf school, sitting on the beach with a trailer full of kayaks for rental. The thing is, I wasn't allowed to rent them out when there was too much swell, so I got my days off when the surf was good. Shoutout to Martin at Discovery Surf School, best boss around!

Portugal, I love the feel of the country. Everyone’s lovely, the food is great, and the landscapes are awesome.

Apart from the obvious one, @jowan_mp, @scenicpisses never disappoints haha.

I’ll get back to you.