Someone who lives between two sides: a passionate little girl who dreams big, and a serious adult who takes care of her. Sometimes, I feel like my job as an adult is to make sure those dreams don’t remain just dreams.

My parents used to kayak, surf, and climb along the beach, while my brother and I played on the shore with a boogie board. Nothing very original. We just wanted to stand up and surf. At first, I only wanted to copy my older brother and beat him. Eventually, I did.

I don’t really have a strict routine. My life moves between the two sides I mentioned earlier. Sometimes I’m at home, focusing on training, answering emails, creating stories, going grocery shopping, and meditating. Other times, I disappear to Mexico for a month to surf and have fun, like the little girl who once dreamed of this life. My life moves in cycles throughout the year.

Probably losing track of time, then suddenly running somewhere because I’m late.

Watching the sunset with friends is one of my favourite things. I also love discovering new countries and imagining what my life might look like if I lived there. It’s a recurring thought.

Reducing the number of choices I have to make. When there’s only one wave to surf, one restaurant to go to, one dish to order, and no need for my phone to organise things, I can relax.

Surfing can make me a bit obsessive about finding the best conditions, but afterwards I feel completely calm. Maybe that’s a bit toxic… haha.

The feeling that there are many ways to live, and that all of them can be good. Travelling the world through surfing has brought me so much joy, and many places that feel like home.

I don’t actually watch many surf movies.

I can sleep pretty much anywhere.

I can turn a house into chaos in under 30 minutes.

I’m not sure… maybe it’s that I try to love them exactly as they are. I let them be weird. In fact, I like them even more when they’re weird and contradictory.

Sometimes I can be very direct. But honestly, I’m not really sure.

Café and aceitunas (olives) make a great brunch.

Honestly… try to run fast and don’t look back.

I think I’m very cyclical. Sometimes I can’t stop talking, and those sessions usually become a bit chaotic. After being very social, I often go quiet. I don’t think I’m competitive with others, but inside I definitely am, mostly with myself.

She likes long right-handers and sometimes just wants to go down the line. Other days, she goes for Karate Kid turns. She changes surfboards a lot, probably too much. She doesn’t like strict surf schedules and prefers to go when it feels right. She hates cold days, so she usually heads out after three coffees, not too early. And big waves still scare her a little.

When there aren’t many people around, there are birds, and the waves are easy, it all feels like when I first started surfing, like a game.