How did you start surfing?
I began surfing when I was very young. My dad taught me, and we used to drive down to Devon on weekends and surf with him. I have the nicest memories about those days.
Why do you surf?
I guess once you learn to surf that's it. I don't think there's any feeling that compares to it. It's everything to me. It makes me happy, it gives me freedom, it's an escape from the world, a form of meditation, it keeps me fit, it makes me smile. I can name a million reasons why I surf and why I love it. I am forever grateful to be a surfer.