Bali, Indonesia
Raskal
"I surf because it keeps me right-minded, there’s just nothing else like it."
Désolé, on dirait que nous n'avons pas assez de ce produit.
Poncho en coton bio
Fabriqué en coton biologique certifié GOTS, notre poncho premium offre douceur et confort exceptionnels tout en minimisant son impact environnemental. Le tissu absorbant facilite le changement avant et après la session tout en apportant chaleur et intimité. Sa coupe ample permet de couvrir vos vêtements et votre combinaison, faisant de ce poncho un accessoire polyvalent pour toutes les saisons.
€70
Sac étanche pour combinaison (65L)
Le sac étanche SRFACE permet de vous changer avant et après vos sessions de surf ainsi que de transporter votre combinaison: vous évitez ainsi de la salir et de mouiller votre coffre de voiture. Il est fabriqué en matériaux recyclés de haute qualité, totalement exempt de PVC et autre plastique toxique. Ce sac étanche de 65 litres peut donc être utilisé comme tapis de change pour garder la combi propre: éviter le sable et les saletés. Également doté d’une poche frontale en mesh avec fermeture anti-corrosion, il offre un espace très pratique pour stocker la wax, les dérives ou tout autre petit accessoire. Le genre de sac que l’on n’imaginait pas nécessaire… jusqu’à ce qu’on l’essaie.
€60
TIME
SURFERS
PHOTOGRAPHY
5 min
Ryan Watts
Gary McCall
Tell us about yourself, who is Ryan Watts in and out of the water?
I’m just a quiet guy living in Ireland who’s lucky enough to have a happy life.
How did you start surfing?
I grew up in New Zealand next to the beach, watching the surfers from a young age, and once I tried it, that was it!
Why do you surf, and what do you love most about it?
I surf because it’s all I know, but what I love most is the places it has taken me and the people I have met through it.
What does a typical day in your life look like?
If it’s summer, I’m somewhere down the country hanging 100 m in the air on ropes fixing wind turbines. If it’s winter, and I’m not surfing, I’m poring over charts looking for waves or staying warm in front of the fire.
Who or what inspires you, and why?
Atm, longboarding! All I want to do is ride my log.
What’s the biggest challenge you’ve faced in your surf journey, and how did you deal with it?
Juggling surf addiction with having a normal life, still working on that one.
You scored a heavy session last week, can you tell us what that day was like from your perspective?
We had a little window where it was just the locals out there, before a big crowd came out, so the vibes were great and it was actually sunny for once!
Tell us a bit about the best wave of the session… What did you feel? What was going through your mind right before you committed to that wave?
I remember thinking it was almost ironically too sunny, and that I was a bit blind taking off, but everything worked out.
Did that session change anything for you? Confidence, goals, perspective?
It was refreshing to get some waves at Mullaghmore with just friends out; that hasn’t happened in a while. Unfortunately, I get really put off by crowds, but that day was nice, and the conditions were perfect for trying a twin-fin gun out there for the first time, with really positive results. My friend Hugh from BOS Surfboards has just shaped me a 9’0” keel-fin gun, which I’m really excited to get my hands on.
What do you do to relax?
I like to knit in the winter, and in summer I try to slackline as much as possible.
By now you’re not only known for charging, but also for not being on Instagram, a rarity these days. Could you share a bit about your motivations?
I’m a bit of an old soul. The way social media has gone doesn’t really sit right with me. I’m just lucky I can live a life that doesn’t require having it, but I’m no saint. I still spend plenty of time on my phone, and I’m addicted to looking at surf and weather forecasts.
If you’re not surfing, you are…
Up in the hills and forests foraging for mushrooms.
Name one thing the world could use more of right now.
Less technology and no more Trump.
Do you have a tip for people who want to build a life around freedom (and surfing)?
Spend as much time as you can in nature and less time trying to follow the crowd.
What’s the worst job you ever did so you could surf?
I used to be a miner. It paid well, but it was terrible for the earth and bad for the soul.
What is your favourite surf destination?
That’s a very hard question. I have quite a few favourites, but because it has just gotten really cold in Ireland, I’m going to say Indonesia would be my first choice at the moment.
What is your favourite surf movie, and why?
‘Thicker Than Water’, they don't get the best waves but the people and adventure in it make it a great film.
Name one thing you would give up surfing for.
My wife, although I do not think she would be able to put up with me for long if I did.
Would you rather have unlimited paddle power and speed, or night vision so you could surf at night?
Definitely paddle power, I need all the help I can get these days.
Anything you want to share with our readers?
Never take being fit and healthy for granted, as it lets you do the things you love.
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