Bali, Indonesia
Raskal
"I surf because it keeps me right-minded, there’s just nothing else like it."
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TIME
SURFERS
PHOTOGRAPHY
AND
5 min
Jowan Pegg
@peterpricemedia
Paul Gill, Chris Griffiths, Dan Thompson
How and when did you start surfing?
I started surfing when I was around eleven years old. I used to go mountain biking with a friend whose dad often took him surfing. One day, I tagged along and was completely hooked. The problem was, I lived about 30 minutes from the beach, which felt like a nightmare at the time. However, my family did their best to take my friends and me to the beach as often as they could. The day I passed my driver’s license test marked a big change, it gave me the freedom to go to the beach whenever I wanted.
Why do you surf and what do you love most about it?
I surf because it allows me to disconnect from society and truly enjoy myself. I love tracking a forecast weeks in advance and watching it develop. When it finally arrives, there’s nothing better than seeing all my friends scoring amazing waves.
What does a typical day in your life look like?
I start my day by waking up and checking the surf. If the waves aren’t good, I am spending time with my girlfriend. We have a baby on the way which is very exciting. If there are good waves, I have coffee and porridge before heading out for a surf. Afterwards, I might grab breakfast and, if the conditions are right, go for another surf. The tides where I live are so dynamic that the waves can go from pumping to flat within two hours.
If you’re not surfing, you are…?
Working on my house. I’ve been renovating it for over a year with help from my girlfriend’s dad and friends. We’re almost there!
Do you have a tip for people who want to build a life around freedom (and surfing)?
Try to work as much as possible when the surf is flat, so you can take time off when the waves are good. Currently, I work for four days and then have four days off. When I’m at work, I shut surfing off completely. But when I’m free, I make sure to make up for it!
Name one thing the world could use more of right now
The world needs more free car parks. I hate paying to park.
What is your favourite surf destination and why?
I love the Algarve in Portugal. The surf is super fun, and the place is amazing. Having friends who have settled there adds an extra layer of magic to the experience, along with the new friendships I’ve forged. Plus, flights from where I live are pretty cheap, so I’m always looking for opportunities to get out there.
What is your favourite surf movie and why?
“Motel hell” Harry Bryant’s new film. I only watched it the other day and it’s so good. The surfing he does in Morocco on such big boards was so impressive. But Dark Fall is my go to surf movie. The New Jersey boys all sent it in freezing conditions.
What accounts should we follow on Instagram and why?
@patrickldark the friend I used to go mountain biking with. Amazing surfer and lives a good life, traveling the world competing.
@logannicol maybe the most handsome welsh surfer. Not so fun trying to catch a wave next to him as he’s the wingspan of a NBA player.
@lukas_skinner future world champ. Super nice kid and he’s got great content.
Would you rather have unlimited paddle power & speed or night vision so you surf at night?
This one took a while, but I’d choose night vision. There are so many times when the surf gets good as it’s getting dark, and it kills me to miss out. Or when a swell hits in the middle of the night, it would be amazing to score some waves before it gets light. Plus, I struggle to sleep the night before a good swell because of the excitement.
Anything you want to share with our readers?
I’m Callum Thomas from Swansea, Wales. The surf here is pretty fun, and the surf scene is great. Langland is one of the main beaches and is very popular. It’s more fun having average waves and a good time with everyone on the slip than driving a bit further for slightly better waves. There are about 8-10 different breaks along the beach, which is maybe 1 kilometer long at its biggest. Each break lights up with different swells, so there’s always an option. Langland is blessed with photographers who never miss a shot.
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