TIME

SURFERS

PHOTOGRAPHY

5 min

Eva de Koning

Jan Bijl, Peter Chamberlain, Jop Hermans, Phil Craig

How did you start surfing?

I started surfing 16 years ago in Mimizan, France. I remember the first wave I ever caught: I was super stoked and never lost that feeling. 

What do you love most about surfing?

For me it’s the whole package. Traveling around the world, surfing the most beautiful waves, meeting new people, cleaning the mind and being outside in nature while being active at the same time!

WHAT DOES A TYPICAL DAY IN YOUR LIFE LOOK LIKE?

The first thing I do when I wake up is check the waves. I'm lucky enough to see the surf from my window. I make some breakfast and check my socials. I love early mornings, so as soon as I finish my breakfast I hit the gym. When I return home I start my work day. Most of the days I work from a coffee bar in my hometown. I work as a freelance event manager so every day is different. Sometimes I work long days, but if there is surf I always try to squeeze in a quick session. The good thing about my work is that I have a lot of meetings and brainstorm sessions, so I’m pretty flexible. After a day of working I like to go outside, go to the beach, work out or hang with friends.

What is your favourite surf destination and why?

Indonesia. I fell in love the moment I arrived in 2012. The people, the food, nature, the climate and of course… the waves. 

Your best session ever? 

Definitely Indonesia last year. This was one of our last days of the trip and the surf was pumping. Red eyes, sunburned and surfed out, but a great goodbye surf.

What is your favourite board?

This is a difficult question! I surf so many different boards. It's all about the wave and destination. But my fave shortboard is the Dumpster Diver. Super easy to paddle but still great for critical turns. My go-to board for smaller days. My favorite longboard is the CeCe Squid. A classic longboard but with a smaller tail making it easy to turn.

And your favourite surf movie?

A bit cliché, but 2 weeks ago I watched 'Bethany Hamilton: Unstoppable'. I’m not a fan-girl, but this movie was great. She’s just a power women who is so dedicated, super strong, and does everything to get to the top. But my number one surf movie is Dear Suburbia. A movie every surfer should watch.

Any accounts we should follow on Instagram?

@slideladyslide! Love the power of all the women on this gram. Just girls dancing on water, what could be better?